Ah Khululi Sizwe ("Free the Nation")

29 May 2008

So, I have started interning at the provincial department of Recreation, Sport, Arts, and Culture. My responsibilities are not quite ironed out yet (today was my first day), but that will come. I went and explained my research project to a committee within the department that is involved with the arts and culture side of things. They were very excited about my research project, and we talked about ways they could help me as well as opportunities to for me to volunteer there. So they suggested (since my research focuses on cultural identity) that I go with them to this function today.

We went off to Keiskammahoek which is about 2 hours from East London and is another rural area. The department did a presentation about the importance of museums for the high school in this town. The department of arts and culture is charged with the responsibility to preserve culture. In light of apartheid history where African culture was demonized and European culture glorified, there is much need to promote culture. In the past Africans were basically told that they and their culture and way of life was inferior and backwards, now the department has the challenge of undoing centuries of such oppression. They want Africans to love being African by understanding and preserving their culture and traditions (because under the old regime; you were nothing if you were African). So it was a really great function and presentation. There were of course cultural presentations which I have some photos and videos of. My boss, Mrs. Nokenke gave a great speech about the importance of knowing and understanding our culture because it is such an important part of who we are; she of course said it much more powerfully than I can summarize, so that will have to suffice.

When we arrived, three boys on horses greeted us at the gate, and escorted us to the tent where the function was taking place. All the students and teachers and other distinguished guests were already there (we were last to arrive; we were really going by African time, which is basically get there when you can . . . “there is no rush in Africa” as they say), so we got out of the car and were welcomed by dancing, shouting, singing, large women dressed in traditional clothes (it was great). They then escorted us through the exhibits from the East London and King Williams Town (they brought the museums to the school, well parts of them). We then went and sat down. This big entrance and production was not on my behalf thank goodness because I hate it when people make a big fuss about the American. They unfortunately had me sit with the special guests (mostly because I came with one). The MC then went through and introduced the “important” guests; I put quotes around important because this introduction included me, and she introduced me first and of course said that I was from America. Once again I just wish I could sit in the background and be a face in the crowd, but the more I am here the more I realize that that just is not going to happen.

Then later on, one of the museum directors gave a speech and said that this high school should build a close relationship with one of the high schools in Grahamstown because both schools were built by missionaries many years ago at the same time. He said they are sister schools and there is history there they should learn about. Then he turned to me and said that it is because of people like me that they have the school and that missionaries and people who care enough to come and help and learn more about how people live here have made such a huge difference in this area. And he thanked me. He also said, “I am an African, and (turning to me) you are an African.” Which of course made me extremely happy :). I at first felt very uncomfortable, but then I realized once again that I got to sit in and take the thanks for what so many other people have done. Here, I represented basically all that is good about foreign aid and development projects (and one of the only good things that came out of colonialism, but I am not sure that even these schools are entirely “good”). A huge honor that I am not worthy to take, but did rather than refuse it. The key part was his acceptance of me when he said that I was an African. For him to include me in that way meant a lot to me, and as he looked at me I felt this connection and that he wasn’t just saying that to say it (people don’t do that here), but he really meant it. I don’t know if this really makes sense, but it was really quite an experience, and I felt a connection with him and everyone there as he said those words. This might sound cheesy but it really was an amazing experience.

One other really important aspect of the day was the presence of the Chief of this area. I am not entirely familiar with how the rural area government works and how the chief relates to the civil government, but he is responsible for a huge chunk of land and people. He is greatly respected as well. One does not greet him the same as you would greet someone else because of his position; to say hello in Xhosa, you say molo, but to the chief you say kululi sizwe which means “free the nation”, which is very interesting. I do not know why they say that, but I get the feeling that it has something to do with the important role that chiefs play in liberating and protecting their people. Mrs. Nokenke (my boss at my internship with the Department of Arts and Culture) talked to the chief about my research and he was quite interested. I talked to him, and he invited me to come to his house next week to talk about his culture and everything. I am really excited and can’t wait to meet with him again.

Has anything really “good” come out of the help from the west? and what is it to be an African . . .